Wednesday, June 29, 2011

Necessity creates a change in format!

Oh, isn't that just the most nonsensical and exciting title you've ever read? It is true, however. We are now back at home and barely posted a single thing in this blog while we were away, but I promised travel stories. So help me god, I shall deliver on that promise. It will just be a little different from the way I originally intended.

Originally, I meant to post updates and photos of our travels while we were traveling. That was what I did while we were in Australia and New Zealand, and I wanted to do it for Germany. In New Zealand, we brought Stowaway (our laptop) with us. Even when I was not able to get a WiFi internet connection, I was able to compose blog posts and then publish them once I was online. Stowaway did not get to come to Germany with us, as we were not about to lug around a laptop for a trip less than a month in duration. This naturally resulted in a limitation of the frequency and ease of blog posting.

As Western Europe is generally well-connected, I figured this would not be much of a problem. Sure, I would have to pay for internet access in cafes and at hostels, but it wouldn't be overly expensive. Sure, I probably wouldn't be able to upload many photos, but I could fill in many of the gaps with links to other websites. Moments of blogging could be snatched here and there in the wee hours spent awake thanks to hostel snorers, and we could hit internet cafes while doing laundry or waiting for train connections. It seemed like a good plan.

It seemed like a good plan in theory.

In reality, we did not have as much spare time for blogging as I anticipated. Despite hostel snorers, we jammed so much into each and every day that sheer exhaustion (usually) resulted in an okay night's sleep. Thanks to a large supply of underwear, we didn't need to do laundry as frequently as anticipated, and the German train system is so very efficient that we spent hardly any time waiting for our train connections. All of this cut into the time I anticipated having to update the blog.

Most surprising, however, was that internet access was not as readily available, as cheap, or as reliable as I thought it would be. While most hostels, B&Bs, and hotels did have WiFi, you needed your own device to use them. If hostels had computers available for use, there were precious few of them. In general, internet access was remarkably expensive. One euro would get you anywhere from 10 to 30 minutes (a couple internet cafes were cheaper, but more difficult to get to on our squeezed schedule). Moreover, the connections were usually terrible. In our Amsterdam hostel the connection was so bad that in 15 minutes I was able to send out a grand total of one email and pay off my Visa via online banking. It was a complete waste of a euro!

So the end result was one ridiculously sparse blog. Excuses, excuses.

Now that we are safely ensconced in my mother-in-law's basement (bless her for putting up with us while we move into our new house), we have constant access to good, fast internet. Our photos have been downloaded, and I again have the occasional spare moment in the evening to think about the trip.

So I have decided to blog the trip, but as a retrospective. Really, all travel blogs are retrospectives of recent activities. This will just be more retrospectivy than usual.

It will be fun, though. I can provide stories with context! I can add colour and foreshadowing! I can write posts while sitting around in my underwear while listening to Captain Tractor and drinking entire pots of coffee!

So let the retrospective begin, reader. Even though I did put in a couple of posts about our activities, I shall do it all again. We start at the beginning, my friends. Next stop: Cologne!

Thursday, June 9, 2011

Dresdin love!

I love Dresdin!

This affection was started even before we arrived, as we started off with a two-hour canoe ride through the charming canals of Lübbenau in the Spreewald region. It is very genteel - calm water covered in ducks, bordered by the garden lawns of residents who frequently set up stalls to sell beer, wine, sandwiches, and strawberries to those paddling on the waters. It was gorgeous (all credit for this side trip goes to my brother and his wife, who suggested it to us).

That afternoon in the Spreewald meant that we were happily relaxed when we arrived in Dresdin. Dresdin is lovely; we found a wonderful, spotlessly clean hostel in a super-funky district that is just a 20 minute walk from the historic centre. The historic centre itself is a marvel of reconstruction considering how thoroughly it was bombed in 1945. The place is once again beginning to drip with Baroque. As you may have figured out, neither Glen nor I are fans of Baroque style architecture and decoration. We do acknowledge it to be very impressive, however. The Grünes Gewölbe (Historic Green Vault) is worth every penny of the 10 euro entry. We also had a look at the Volkswagon Transparent Factory, which was quite cool. It did not, however, make me want to purchase one of their Phaetons, which carries a price tag of over 101,000 euro.

The area immediately around our hostel is really nifty. There are hidden couryards all over the place, each with wonderful independent shops on the street level and apartments above them. There are a large number of Turkish immagrants here, so there are also a representative number of Shisha bars. At night the scent of the shisha wafts out of the store fronts to smack you in the face as you walk by.

Incidentally, we are likely walking by with a beer in hand. You can drink on the streets in this marvellous country. A nice bottle of wine is about 3 to 4 euro. It is going to be difficult to accept the cost of booze back at home.

Today is our last full day here, so I'm hammering out posts while waiting for our washing to be done at the laundromat. If you plan on heading to Dresdin at any point, stay at Hostel Louise20. It is very reasonably priced, quiet, and spotlessly clean.

Enough blogging for now. Time to shove the laundry into the dryer.

Classical ruins and tropical islands

Berlin is one of those huge cities where owning a car would be like having a giant albatross around your neck at all times. It is bustling, crowded, and under the operation of traffic laws that would stymie any Edmontonian (hell, any Canadian) driver.http://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gif

The place is packed, and I mean packed, with classical treasures from Rome, Greece, Egypt, Babylon, and other locales. The Pergamon Museum contains several rooms in which major archetectural features have been reconstructed, including the Ishtar Gates, the Pergamon Altar and the full-size frieze that surrounded the Pergamon temple, a Roman gateway, and a Hellenic courtyard. The scale of these exhibits is mind-boggling. That is in just one of the five closely-spaced museums in this area. Another one houses the famous Nefertiti Bust. She causes a great deal of trouble, as there is such a fuss of visitors around her that you have to reserve a time to enter the museum itself, lest the building be mobbed around the clock.

There were other sites we visited - the Marienkirche being one of our favourites, as well as the Berliner http://www.blogger.com/img/blank.gifDom (which is an impressive and rather revolting Baroque contrast to the cleaner medieval lines of the Marienkirche. We dragged our karate buddy Sean on walks that spanned several hours. That is the standard type of touring that Glen and I do, but it appears to be tortorous to the uninitiated. I think that Glen and I have simply grown accustomed to it. The walking isn't much of a negotiating point or a matter of stubborn cost-saving for us, it's just what we do.

Berliners seem to have an ongoing obsession with beach culture. As a way of paying homage to this, as well as to give our heads a break from non-stop sightseeing, we stayed overnight at Tropical Islands, an ultra-cheesy and somewhat overpriced holiday trap about an hour south of Berlin. It is the ultimate expression of brainless entertainment - utterly devoid of anything that requires you to think, and quite enjoyable for it. It is an escape in a manner similar to how Las Vegas is an escape. Just turn your mind off, boggle at the weirdness of the architecture, and let yourself drop into the fantasy. While marinating ourselves in the various pool yones, we also discovered that we rather like the Sauna treatments. Being hotboxed for 15 minutes in a room that reaches a hellish 80 degrees celcius while strange, minty scents are distributed by a towel-whirling attendant is surprisingly revitalizing. So too is the procedure of dousing yourself in cold water and then rubbing yourself down with handfuls of ice after you emerge from the slow-cooker. As an added bonus, your skin is baby-soft afterwards.

And before you ask, the answer is yes - I do still like to eat lobster.

Sunday, June 5, 2011

Interlude

Crivins, is getting internet access in the hostels ever expensive! I have exactly two minutes left to type this, therefore content will be sparse.

To sum up:

I like raw herring with onions.

Berlin is covered in monumental archetecture and is obsessed with ice cream.

Hostel bunkmates often fight nocturnal battles that cause the beds to rattle fiercly. They cannot help this.

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